Punjab

The Punjab is a large area in northern India. Originally a much larger land mass before the great divide when the western Punjab was incorporated into Pakistan. And here Beth and I have spent the majority of our time in India. It has been a truly amazing experience, made particularly memorable by meeting Christians in the area. It still amazes me that no matter where you go in the world, when you meet a fellow Christian you feel right at home. And we certainly felt at home here.

The weather was generally hot, made even hotter by the high humidity.
Staying in the Punjab was not as crowded as Delhi and we were glad to be based in the countryside, surrounded by fields of rice.
The local village has a square where buffalo sit and chew the cud.
The villagers have circular cast iron cutters to chop the green stalks from the fields into food for these animals. Each home seems to have access to a buffalo, thus ensuring a regular supply of milk.

Want some milk? Speak nicely to the buffalo.

The square of the village gives way to narrow winding cobbled streets. At first it comes as a bit of a shock to have the main drainage from the houses culverted along narrow channels either side of the main paths - but as long as you remeber where you are going you're fine! The only thing that can catch you out is someone sending the washing up water down the drain into the culvert. The outlet pipes are cunningly located at ankle height, so any water coming out with too much gusto can easily give you wet feet.

The main modes of transport that we experienced were bikes, rickshaws, auto-rickshaws and tempos. I did managed to get some exercise, which was a novelty after our time in South Africa. However, to make the most of the cool part of the day, you need to be pretty disciplined and get up at around half three in the morning. I took a ride with these fellas on our bikes. These machines are single speeders. The front forks arch forward, giving you a very upright riding position and the brakes are a solid state mechanism! The main suspension is found in the form of two substantial springs located under the saddle which, for even someone of my mass, did a sterling job! We headed out of the village under a clear starry sky, the suspension soaking up most of the bumps. Apart from a spanner for fixing things, you also need a sturdy wooden stick. This handy tool is ideal for beating away dogs who get too close or for ensuring snakes know who is boss. Thankfully on the occasions I went out we only met the dogs.

The next mode of transport we used is a Tempo. This machine boasts one of the earliest 'lefty' front forks. Basically, imagine a Harley with an extra wheel at the back, slap on a steel shell over the top, weld on wheel arches, some steel grid around the edges, a couple of handrails and you're just about done. They reminded me of some kind of insect. Although you can seat nine, you can get about 24 onto these machines. Ladies generally sit inside and the blokes get the fresh air and flies whilst standing on any ledges you can put your feet on. In fact I preferred being outside, the backrest inside generally comprised a pole, similar to a scaffold, welded across to brace the frame and could be uncomfortable when there was any harsh breaking (which was fairly regularly!). And anyway, you look more cool hanging off the side of one of these things!!!

Auto-rickshaws and rickshaws are a good way of getting around. The auto-rickshaws are like scurrying beetles running along the main roads and now and again firing out a passenger before zipping on to the next destination. These are a slimmed down version of a Tempo.

Our final mode of transport here was the mighty elephant. It's a new experience grabbing the backend of an elephant whilst smearing with your right foot up the back leg of the beast. Still, the view from the top is great, although it feels a bit lurchy as you move along. Perhaps we need a bit more practice.

But by far the best thing about the Punjab is the people. We were made so welcome here. It was amazing and very humbling to hear how peoples lives had been dramatically changed as they had come to understand what the Gospel really means and how relevant and necessary it is. In my own culture, although 'Christian' nominally, there are not many who get to grips with what being a Christain actually is - of God's amazing grace to needy sinners. It may seem a strange thing to say for some reading this blog, but these people that we met in the Punjab, they are to us as close as family. I cannot really express how kind and generous people were to us and of the very real love expressed.

We were also fed so well. English food is going to taste so bland now! And at every home where you are invited in, in only a matter couple of minutes there are mugs of tea put before you. And the tea! I must tell you about the tea. It is sweet and packed with caffine. What more could you ask for? It makes our tea bags look quite pathetic. You boil up some water in a saucepan, add a few buckets of sugar, throw in some spices and load up the loose tea. Boil for five minutes and allow the flavours to infuse. Add some buffalo milk to get a nice colour, keep boiling for another five minutes and hey presto, you have proper Indian tea. Filter into a small mug, definitely not a gallon mug, and then drink. Superb at any time of day - just wait till I get back in the office! On one evening we visted some of the people from the local church and others from the local community. We had so many cups of tea - it was wonderful (and not just for the tea!).

But as so often happens, our time in the Punjab flew by. We have learnt a lot here and we feel that we have left something of our hearts in a small village in this big state.

Next, we travel east into the mountains for some cool air. But that's for the next blog.

Some more photos to browse: